smiles from a somber people

towels packed, will travel

Nearly two decades later, Rwanda is still haunted by the genocide and its aftermath. The gacaca courts may have finished their business, but the memories remain raw for the people who are old enough to remember. Our friends, who have been serving in Kigali for about as long as we have been in Nairobi, said that it’s rare to see Rwandans smiling. The only exception, our friends noted, is when they are dancing.

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